So i thought i had a bad battery but turns out thats not the case, but still my protruck will not crank with good speed yet just rolls over really slow and the lights dim down when i do so, any suggestions on whats wrong?
print this...follow it... if you can get the engine running...perform tests 2, 3, 4 while cranking the engine... post results of all tests..engine running, headlights and other accessories on to create a load on the charging system.1..2..3..4..cranking1c.2c.3c.4c..please check the positive side also..battery positive battery post... to the starter post while cranking..results...i will check back for results..these tests will take you less than 15 minutes to perform all of them...it will take you another 10 minutes to post them...
and a secret...do you have a set of jumper cables???please perform the tests above and post results.. i have been at this for over 30 years and thats the tests i perform... as for the secret..take your jumper cables... attach both red and black on one end of the cables to the battery NEGATIVE TERMINAL... attach the other end.. both red and black clamps to the engine block...attempt to crank the engine. if it cranks easy.. you will find you have a disconnected or undersized ground cable .. that will also show up with this quick test..i have used this test.. when the negative cable was not even attached to the engine block to get the engine started..remember.. electrons flow from Negative to positive... if you don't have a good ground connection.. with the proper size wire.. you won't have enough electons to perform the job you are asking them to perform..the voltage drop test will show higher voltage across the bad connections..
Tyler18Whenever I wire a Race car Race Truck. I use either "0 gauge" or "1 gauge" battery cables. I ground both sides of the engine to the chassis, and so-on. Make sure there is NO Rust or Dirt under the battery terminals. You may think this is over-kill but it should get rid of the slow crank, and a slow cranking engine will wear the battery down, and damage the starter also, and it won't spin the engine fast enough to start it. Here's an old Racer's trick. Wire your Starter separate from your ignition. Once you get the engine cranking flip on the ignition on. You could also use the Ford starter solenoid set-up too. Jegs and Summit sell the kits. That helps keep the starter from kicking back and causing excessive currant draw. Make sure your battery is fully charged, Have a helper with you. Have the helper crank the engine on your command, while you watch a DVM to see if the Battery voltage drops. If the voltage goes below 10 VDC have the battery load tested, if it can't hold 12 VDC while cranking throw the battery away. If you have any questions ask. Check all those connections first! Bob